The big question that everybody asks about Scandinavia is: "What is the best time of the year to visit?"
Should it be spring or summer when the weather is warmer, the days long and the people are out and about, celebrating their season in the outdoors? Or should it be winter when the snow and ice sparkle in moonlight and Northern Lights dance across the sky? My answer? Do both.
The 'best time' myth has plagued Scandinavia for a while now. Any time is the right time, so long as you understand what to expect and know what you're looking for.
Scandinavia in summer bursts with life. The concept of hygge begins to take hold in the cities during autumn, with hearty stews and cinnamon swirls warming the soul. In winter, it is the beauty of an extraordinary frozen landscape where birch and pine trees drip with icicles and the air is crisp, dry and freezing. As long as you're dressed sensibly, this isn't a problem.
Getting to know Scandinavia
However, let's check we all have the same understanding of what Scandinavia actually is. It's the nations of Norway, Sweden and Denmark.
These three countries have been invading each other and making alliances together over the course of history, and it wasn't until the mid-19th century that they all settled down into a sort of peaceful common language family. Scandinavia doesn't include Finland which has a completely different language and has, historically, had closer ties with Russia.
The countries are very different, each having their own national character and distinctive geography.
- Denmark: small, flat and agricultural.
- Sweden: islands, lakes and forests.
- Norway: fjords and mountains.
They can more or less understand each other's languages, although regional dialects and accents occasionally present a challenge. The climates of all three nations are temperate in the south where most people live - and it gets surprisingly warm here in summer.
The north is pleasant but chilly in summer, even just above the Arctic Circle. Summer is short above the Arctic Circle (about two to three months) and before you know it, life here returns to more like what you expect.
Did you know?
- Which country has the most islands in the world? Sweden, with an extraordinary total of approximately 267,570 islands. However, only about 984 of these islands are inhabited.
- Norway has the third longest coastline in the world and the longest one in Europe. It is 36,122 miles long.
Embracing traditions and culture
We tend to think of modern Scandinavians as peaceful, thoughtful and self-contained, but back in their time they were influential and successful global explorers.
Between the 8th and 11th centuries, Vikings raided, pirated, traded and settled throughout parts of Europe, the Mediterranean and as far away as Nova Scotia. Evidence of this past is still scattered throughout all three nations.
There's another thing that the countries share, although it originated in Sweden: Fika.
The word can used as both a noun and a verb and refers to a social gathering with coffee and pastries (usually cinnamon buns). You can fika at any time of day, or several times a day, and some Scandinavian countries write fika breaks into employee contracts. It's a very sensible and civilised concept and, for me, those two adjectives sum-up and define the Scandinavian nations.
There's one country that I haven't yet mentioned, Lapland. It's not actually a country, but a region. It swings in a wide arc through the north of the Scandinavian Peninsula, and includes northern parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland and the Kola Peninsula of Russia. The natives of Lapland are known as Sámi. Traditionally nomadic, they follow their reindeer herds and have freedom of movement across the borders of all three Nordic countries (but not Russia).
Several Great Rail Journeys tours include time spent with the Sámi people and those days are highlights for me. Sitting in a circular Sámi hut in front of a fire on a wooden bench draped in reindeer fur, listening to stories of the giant reindeer herd migrations.
Top 3 railways in Scandinavia
Since I love trains, these are my recommendations for the best three railway routes in Scandinavia. You may have your own preferences, but these lines always please me.
The Bergen Railway
Running for 310 miles between Oslo and Bergen, it climbs to about
3,500 feet and runs across a plateau that is up near the snow line
year-round. The flagship route of Norwegian Railways, the trains
themselves are modern, fast and clean and the windows are large.
Seats are comfortable and the dining car is excellent, with tables
and seats. It is best enjoyed with one of their superb hot dogs
served with mashed potatoes and fried onions. Trust me on that,
even if you think you won't like it.
Inlandsbanan
This brave little train runs up the spine of Sweden for just more
than 800 miles, from Kristinehamn in the south to Gällivare in the
north, linking small communities. The train is tiny, consisting of
two elderly diesel railcars. The conductor provides commentary, the
driver is happy to accept visitors in the cab and there's always a
sort of ad-hoc community spirit that develops. My favourite feature
is that the train stops for lunch at a small restaurant in the
middle of nowhere.
The Rauma Line
Once again, a brave little double-car diesel train, this time in
Norway. It runs for about 70 miles down the Romsdalen valley,
between Åndalsnes and Dombås. The scenery is astonishing, with the
line dropping 2,200 feet and running around a double horseshoe
curve, past the Trollveggen (Troll Wall), the tallest vertical rock
face in Europe, the Vermafossen waterfall and across the Kylling
Bridge. The route has attracted film crews and was featured in
Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince and Mission: Impossible -
Dead Reckoning, where Tom Cruise jumps off a mountain on a
motorbike and parachutes onto the top of the Rauma Line train,
fights the villain on the carriage roof (as you do) and escapes as
the Kylling Bridge is blown up; I'm exhausted just writing
that!
What to expect from Scandinavian food and drink
Scandinavian food is diverse, fresh and healthy, using simple and natural ingredients and combining them in delicious but unexpected ways.
As you head north, expect to see reindeer and moose somewhere on the menu but to get the most from Scandinavia, explore the fish recipes. Every winter, millions of cod migrate to the Lofoten Islands from the Barents Sea in order to spawn. Gravlax, pickled herring and smoked cod roe are widely enjoyed. For me, the Norwegian brown cheese, Brunost, is reason enough to visit Norway on its own.
Alcohol is expensive in Scandinavia. All three countries have flirted with prohibition in the past and alcohol nowadays is highly taxed and (in Norway and Sweden) only sold through state-run outlets. Scandinavians tend to drink at weekends or with friends at parties rather than during the week. That said, when they go for it, they don't hold back, and some brands of Aquavit (local spirit) could stun a mule!
Experience Scandinavia with Great Rail Journeys
Our tours take in the best of Scandinavia - from the colourful canals of Copenhagen to the frozen rivers of Øvre Pasvik National Park.
Enjoy year-round beauty in medieval cities, verdant valleys and snow-covered islands as we show you the wonders and culture of this breathtaking region.
Explore the Highlights of Norway's Fjords & Cities, or embark on our Ultimate Norway, Sweden & the Arctic Circle tour
Take a short winter break to enjoy Huskies & the Northern Lights or set sail to discover the Northern Lights on a Winter Arctic Cruise
In summer, you can marvel at the Midnight Sun on a Grand Tour of Norway or see the capitals at their vibrant best on our Oslo, Stockholm & Copenhagen by Rail tour.
To view our full range of Scandinavia tours, click here
